Clemson Scientists Pioneer Breakthroughs In Cotton Transformation And Eco-Friendly Fiber Coloring
DENISE ATTAWAY
CLEMSON, SOUTH CAROLINA
A team of scientists from Clemson University is spearheading a groundbreaking initiative to revolutionize cotton biotechnology and enhance textile sustainability.
Funded by the Clemson University Research Foundation (CURF), the project aims to significantly enhance cotton transformation efficiency and introduce naturally pigmented fibers, offering a greener alternative to chemical dyeing.
Led by Christopher “Chris” Saski, a systems geneticist and professor in the Department of Plant and Environmental Sciences, this research addresses two major challenges in cotton production: the difficulty of genetically modifying diverse cotton varieties and the environmental impact of textile dyeing.
Senior scientists in Saski’s lab, Zhigang Li and Sonika Kumar, play key roles. Li, an expert in gene cloning, brings deep experience in molecular biology, genetics and biochemistry, while Kumar leads cotton transformation and regeneration efforts.
Faster, more efficient cotton transformation
Traditional genetic engineering in cotton is slow and inefficient, often taking more than a year to produce results. Saski’s team has developed a novel system that reduces this timeline to approximately six months and achieves a success rate of over 50%. This breakthrough uses a gene activated by a safe chemical trigger to drive plant stem cells to form an embryo and regenerate a whole plant from a single cell.
The team plans to test various gene combinations to make this method work across elite and commercial cotton varieties, including Upland and Pima species, opening the door to faster crop improvements and more resilient cotton strains.
The economic potential is great for rural America.
“Color-trait cotton opens premium markets and lets farmers capture more value per acre,” Saski said. “Rural prosperity grows when growers sell both fiber quality and built-in color.”
Coloring cotton – naturally
In a bold step toward sustainability, the project’s second phase focuses on engineering cotton to grow in shades of blue, eliminating the need for chemical dyes. By inserting natural pigment-producing genes from plants and microbes directly into cotton, the researchers aim to produce vibrant, pre-colored fibers.
This innovation could significantly reduce water and chemical use in textile manufacturing – one of the most polluting stages of clothing production – and aligns with growing consumer demand for eco-friendly products. It also creates new opportunities for brands to adopt sustainable materials.
Highlighting the consumer benefits, Saski said, “Color-grown cotton means clothes with color that lasts – no fading. Sustainable style becomes the default when color starts within the cotton fiber itself, instead of a dye added during processing that ultimately detaches after multiple rounds of washing.”
Industry collaboration and commercial potential
The technology is already attracting attention from major players. A worldwide patent has been filed and commercialization efforts are underway. This research could benefit biotech companies, cotton seed producers, fashion brands and dye manufacturers seeking to reduce their environmental footprint.
“By removing dyeing, we cut water, energy and chemicals while boosting consistency,” Saski explained. “Shade can be a genetic spec – traceable, repeatable and brand-ready.”
A greener future for cotton
With the global cotton market projected to surpass $50 billion by 2032, innovations like this are crucial for keeping natural fibers competitive with synthetics. By making cotton easier to engineer and more sustainable to produce, the scientists believe this research could reshape the future of agriculture and fashion, while also having a positive impact on the environment.
“Fewer chemicals from field to fabric means healthier ecosystems,” Saski said. “Built-in color is a direct path to lower-impact textiles at a global scale.”
Cotton is an economic driver for South Carolina, as well as the entire nation. Figures from the USDA for 2025 show South Carolina cotton farmers produced an estimated 275,000, 480-pound bales of cotton. This production was based on 170,000 planted acres.
Globally, the U.S. is the third-largest producer of cotton, behind China and India. The latest reports from the USDA show U.S. cotton production for the 2025-2026 season is estimated at 13.22 million bales. The forecast is based on a projected 7.37 million harvested acres, with an estimated yield of 861 pounds per acre. ∆
DENISE ATTAWAY
CLEMSON UNIVERSITY